5 minutes with.... BULKA
We spoke to Nina, the designer behind BULKA, about kaftans, inspiration and her dream destination.
Why did you decide to specialise in kaftans?
It’s a simple, yet such a stylish piece that can elevate any outfit. The kaftan was worn as a part of men's Serbian folk costume in the 19th century, especially in winter, and this item of clothing came to the southern part of Serbia under the influence of the East. From there, Bulka draws its basic inspiration for kaftans, kimonos, coats ... In that way, I want to tell a story of tradition, because in this "new age" it is not easy to look back, stop and firmly stand on your feet. All the details are inspired by traditional Serbian costumes, which have been implemented into a modern concept. This adds to the uniqueness and yet the wearability of the entire collection on all occasions. Each model is unique for itself and made with great care from high-quality materials.
Where did the name BULKA come from?
I have been searching for a brand name that will inspire me, speak the language of my soul and will also be in Serbian. As Serbian botanics inspire me very much, I have chosen the name BULKA which means poppy flower translated to Serbian.
Every spring, there are many wild poppy flowers around Serbia blooming in all their vividness and freedom. I am inspired by their rich mythology and history. It is interesting that one of the first plants that men began to grow were poppies and they were already used 6000 years BC in northern Macedonia. There are only a few flowers that have played such an important role in religion, mythology, politics and medicine as the poppy. Although they grew along roads and meadows, they enchanted poets and inspired painters. The ancient Greeks associated poppy with Gods. It was the sacred plant of the fertility goddess Demeter, and with the god of dreams Morpheus, it has been dedicated also to Zeus’ wife Harry, and as flower of love to goddess Aphrodite and many more.
Where do you find inspiration?
It is wonderful when at one point in your life you can look back briefly and look at the imprints made during your life journey. I like to do that sometimes, but only sometimes as I practice living in the present, here and now. But whenever I do that, I always find a beautiful memory that inspires me, especially from a destination I have been to. It can just be the memory of a sound or a smell, so I do some research of that and mix it together. I am not afraid to experiment and combine different cultures for inspiration, as I have done for my latest collection where I combined Serbian and Indian tradition.
What’s the favourite piece you ever made?
It is interesting when my seamstress pointed out to me recently how I care about every piece of fabric I bring and then about every piece that has ever been made. It is completely unconscious and very often when I see the finished piece, I have this strange feeling of falling in love with it and feeling a mixture of respect, care and love. I believe it says that there is a part of me in each and every piece. It is very hard to choose, but at the moment I am in love with a new jacket I made for the newest Anahata collection, soon to be revealed!
How has costume design helped you?
I have graduated from both Fashion and Costume Design at the Academy. And I had the opportunity for years to work on movies and in theatres. It has been a huge experience and growth for me, and theatre will always have a special place in my heart. When I stepped into the fashion world, I believe this previous experience helped me in the way I approach fashion with less boundaries. I do not say that other designer have them, I just have the feeling that I would not be able to experiment that much if I hadn’t experienced costume design. BULKA became my painting canvas for expressing all my inspirations and research, as well as emotions.
How do you decide on colour combinations?
This is something that just comes in the moment. I usually choose vivid colours and I am in love with strong colouring so for me, more colours equals more fun. Fabrics inspire me when I see and touch them, and I have the initial point and inspiration, but I allow myself to go out from the boundaries.
What’s you dream destination and why?
I think this is the hardest question. It depends on what you want to experience. I travel not as a typical tourist with a list of sightseeing activities. I love to travel for the sake of experience. I love to meet new people, go off roads, taste local food, mingle with locals, learn about the tradition. I started travelling very early as my parents used to be travellers. It has always been part of my life and I draw all of my inspiration from travelling. So let me put it this way. If I close my eyes and find myself in Kathmandu, I see locals always smiling, barefoot children running around the Durbar square, sound of pigeons flying around, smell of incenses, hearing morning chants of Buddhist and Hindu temples, turning of praying wheels, while monkeys steal the offerings to the Gods, all of that mixed with an early morning Sun. That is how I feel about every destination but I will always go back to Nepal.
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